Your hair, if you are a woman, is generally your crowning glory. I change mine constantly because it’s pretty much the easiest thing to change about yourself. As much as I’d love to, I can’t suddenly drop six stone or grow six inches overnight, but I can turn up at work with a completely new hairstyle.
Over the years of messing with my hair, I’ve learnt a lot. Mainly, what not to do. Here is my little guide of tips and tricks learnt over the years. I would just add that my hair is very strong, it grows very quickly and it is very greasy, so just because I got away with it doesn’t mean you will. Please also remember that Asian or African-Caribbean hair is very different to European hair, so not all tricks are universally good for your hair. Read instructions very carefully and if you are unsure, consult a professional before you attempt anything.
Bleaching
No matter how you dress it up, hair bleach is awful for your hair. Hydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide are found in nearly all hair bleaching solutions, and they are harsh chemicals that have the unfortunate side effect of stripping your hair of its natural oils and moisture. I have had peroxide blonde hair, so light it was almost white. I will warn you first and foremost that if you decide to do this, the upkeep is hard work and expensive. My natural hair colour (which I have not sported since I was twelve) is a kind of dark honey blonde with strands of red and white. Despite this, when my roots came in on my bright blonde hair they looked very dark in comparison, so I had to dye it very regularly. It also did damage my hair quite significantly, making it very dry.
Bleach is a powerful chemical, so work near an open window. Do not inhale the powder or liquid bleach. Do not use any kind of metal implement to stir the mixture or for example a metal clip in your hair as this can cause a chemical reaction and your hair could end up pea soup green. I personally use L’Oreal Maximum Blonde to bleach my hair as it is the quickest and gentlest bleach I have found.
Here are a few tips if you do decide to bleach your hair:
- If your hair is dyed dark brown or black, it is best to use a colour stripper like “Colour B4” on your hair before you attempt to bleach it. Colour B4 contains no ammonia or peroxide and is gentler. More on that later.
- If possible, bleach your hair when you have a good two inches or so you can chop off when it’s done. The ends of your hair will often be dry and splitting, and bleach will compound this terribly.
- Stock up on intensive hair conditioners such as “Aussie Three Minute Miracle” and slather this on your hair. If possible, wrap your head in clingfilm and then a towel with the conditioner on underneath and sleep overnight with this.
- Your hair will probably not go blonde on the first try unless you are dyeing over natural hair. Be prepared to have orange hair for a while.
- You cannot just bleach and bleach your hair over and over. I tried this (bleaching it six times in three days), and it snapped off. I am serious- about ten inches of hair fell off my head in huge clumps. You need to give your hair a good rest in between bleaches.
- Toner must be used after your hair is as blonde as it can be. Toner removes the brassy tones in blonde hair. You can also buy toning shampoo and I would highly recommend using this with blonde hair to keep it white blonde and not yellow or orange.
- You may think that you bleached your hair a while ago, and then dyed it brown, so you can just bleach your hair again. Be very careful- hair seems to have a final breaking point with bleach and you might think its fine, slap it on your head and then boom, it’s all gone. Talk to a hairdresser before you do so they can tell you how knackered your hair is.
If you absolutely frazzle your hair with bleach, you are going to have to chop it off. I am sorry, but there is no way to rescue fried hair. You will know if you have done this as it will feel like old rope. Hair grows back though, so don’t panic!
Colour B4
Colour strippers are mainly for people who are going from dark to light. It is very good stuff that works very quickly and doesn’t seem to damage hair too badly. It smells dreadful, so please work near an open window (seriously, it smells like a basket of rotting eggs.)
Colour B4 may claim to strip hair back to its lovely natural colour but be careful. My dyed red-haired friend went from this to her natural honey blonde. Excellent. Unfortunately, my dyed dark brown-haired friend used it, and now she has hair the colour of a mushroom. It may work on you, it may not, and of course the only way to find out is to try it.
You can dye over Colour B4 but I would recommend at least a week of rest. Chemicals in different dyes can react together, and the fire service won’t be amused if you tell them this is how you blew up your house.
Chemical Straightening
I don’t really know why I did this to my hair as mine is as straight as a yardstick. However, I tried this. Firstly, it absolutely reeks. Seriously, it smells like an egg fart that’s been trapped in a sweaty shoe. It is very good stuff and didn’t do any damage to my hair, and it certainly does makes it straighter. However, when you have the smelly gloop on your head you need to get your part where you wear your part, as if you don’t, the hair will be stuck like this. This is really better for curly hair. If you have loose curls it will make it straight, if you have extremely tight curls it will straighten them to looser curls, and it looks amazing. This is available from most chemists and can be done professionally. It is not permanent and so will need topping up regularly.
Other hair dye
Firstly, it doesn’t matter how many times you have dyed your hair, always do a patch test. Some people can suffer horrific reactions to dye, and it is always best to check.
Here are a few tips:-
- Hair dye will dye anything, including wood. Be careful.
- Hair dye will dye your skin, so try coating the areas it will touch in Vaseline which will stop this. If you do get it all over you, you can remove it with alcohol or an alcohol based skin toner.
- Do not ever use hair dye on your eyebrows or lashes- you can buy special dye for this and it works a treat.
- Do not leave it on for longer than it says on the box. I have got some crazy results from doing this, and not in a good way.
- When it says to dye your roots and then the rest of your hair afterwards, they mean it. Don’t be lazy like me unless you want insane looking hair.
Dyeing over recently bleached hair is hard, because bleach makes hair more porous and unlikely to take the dye properly. I bleached mine about a month ago and then dyed it blue using the Schwarzkopf dye and it was a disaster. The colour just fell straight out. I have had no luck with this dye; it just doesn’t stay in my hair. Personally, I find Clairol the best.
Stargazer dyes are very good for very bright colours like pink, purple or green. Manic Panic is also excellent, and both of these can be bought online. I have had pink, blue, green, purple and bright red hair and loved them all.
Hairdryers and Straighteners
No matter how expensive your dryer and straightener were, they are bad for your hair. Any kind of exposure to intense heat, and this includes sunlight, is bad for your hair. If I know I am going to be sitting outside for a long time in the sun (this has happened about twice, I think, seeing as I hate the sun and my dreadfully pale skin can’t handle it) I cover my hair in conditioner and leave it on all day. Even better to wear a hat.
Whenever you can, let your hair dry naturally. I wash my hair before I go to bed, smooth it into a part with my hands and then sleep with it wet. In the morning I don’t do anything to it, apart from maybe a tiny bit of water to straighten a kink and then a tiny blast with the hairdryer on the coolest setting. I used to be thoroughly addicted to my hair straightener and now I never use it. For a start, flat hair doesn’t suit me and also, I could see how much it was damaging my hair. There were little curls and swirls all over it that the straightener had burnt to a crisp. If you can, give your hair a rest from the dryer, straightener, tongs or whatever else you use whenever you can.
Washing and General Care
I wash my hair every day. I know, I know, you’re not meant to, but I have very greasy skin and very greasy hair so I have no choice. I use a shampoo formulated for greasy hair and unless my hair is post dye, I never use conditioner. My greasy hair has no use for it. If you do condition your hair, try conditioning only the hair that sits there when you have your hair in a ponytail, which should stop your roots from getting greasy. There are a huge amount of oils, masques and goodness else knows what else out there for your hair. Shop around and see what works for you.
I never brush my hair. I know this may sound insane but it causes my hair to snap and also makes it frizz. I use my hands to smooth it into a parting after I have washed it and in the morning because it is so straight and thick it hangs by itself. If you do brush your hair, use a wide tooth comb or soft brush. Do not use plastic bristles if you can, and don’t over brush your hair. All you do is stimulate the follicles to produce more grease and snap the ends off. When you tie your hair back, don’t tie too tightly as this will drag on your skin and scalp and never use plastic bands, always hair ties.
I also never go to the hairdressers. I have been cutting my own hair for eleven years. I wouldn’t necessarily encourage this unless you are both cheap and lazy like me, or a professional. I just tie my hair back in a ponytail and cut the end off when it looks a bit frazzled. There are you tube videos on how to cut your own hair properly if you would like to try. Be careful, go slowly and always leave it a little bit longer at first so you have room to correct any mistakes.
I have just completed a long weekend of bleaching and dyeing and my hair was supposed to be a lovely auburn colour. It is in fact the colour of a baked bean, but I rather like it. Let’s see how long I have this until I’m bored again.
