With summer well underway, searches for “retinol and sun exposure” are up 4,250% and “how much retinol to use” up 1,100% in the last 30 days alone*, showing there’s a real appetite to understand why your skincare routine might need a refresh as the temperature rises.
To help, LOOKFANTASTIC has teamed up with pharmacist and founder of The Derma Lab, Elizabeth Japal, to decode what your summer skincare routine really needs, and why some ingredients, including retinol, should be left to one side this summer.
Why you must switch up your skincare in summer
“As the seasons change, so do your skin’s needs,” says Elizabeth. “In the warmer weather, skin tends to be oilier, sweats more, and is exposed to higher levels of UV and environmental stress. This means you can usually pare back heavier products and focus on lightweight hydration and strong sun protection.
“SPF becomes your top priority, and formulas that support the skin barrier are essential. If you don’t adapt your routine, you may experience clogged pores, irritation or premature ageing.”
Here’s why you should take a break from retinol when in the sun
Pharmacist Elizabeth Japal warns that “if you’re heading abroad or expecting intense sun exposure, it’s wise to take a short break from retinol to avoid irritation and overexposure.” Retinol, hailed for smoothing fine lines and boosting collagen, becomes risky when paired with strong UV rays. While some actives can be used cautiously in summer, Elizabeth urges sun-seekers to pause on this one.
“Retinols, AHAs and BHAs can make skin more photosensitive. You don’t need to ditch them forever, but if you’re on a beach holiday or spending hours in direct sunlight, now’s the time to give your skin a break,” Elizabeth says.
Top tips for summer proofing your skin
To keep your complexion calm, glowy and protected all summer long, Elizabeth shares her summer skincare rules:
- Prioritise SPF- Use a broad-spectrum SPF50 that protects against both UVA (ageing) and UVB (burning) rays, and reapply every two hours, more often if you’re swimming, sweating or towel-drying. Don’t be fooled by cloudy days either; UV rays still penetrate cloud cover, so this should be a non-negotiable step in your morning routine regardless of the forecast.
- Switch to a water- or gel-based moisturise- Heavier creams that feel comforting in winter can sit on the skin and trap heat and sweat in summer, often leading to congestion and breakouts. A lightweight, hyaluronic acid-based gel delivers the hydration your skin needs without the heavy feel, while choosing oil-free and non-comedogenic formulas helps keep pores clear when humidity is at its highest.
- Introduce antioxidants into your routine- Vitamin C, niacinamide and green tea extract help defend the skin from UV damage and environmental stressors like pollution. These ingredients don’t replace sunscreen, but they do strengthen your skin’s resilience and can help fade existing pigmentation. A lightweight antioxidant serum applied in the morning, before moisturiser and SPF, is one of the easiest ways to boost your skin’s defences without adding extra steps.
- Cleanse twice daily with a gentle, non-stripping face wash- sweat, sunscreen and excess oil build up quickly in warmer weather, so a proper cleanse morning and night is essential to keep pores clear. Just be careful not to overcompensate with harsh, foaming formulas, as stripping the skin’s natural barrier can actually trigger more oil production. Look for cleansers with added ceramides or glycerin to clean without disrupting the skin’s moisture balance.
- Carry a cooling face mist to refresh your complexion on the go- mists containing aloe vera or cucumber extract are brilliant for calming flushed, overheated skin after a workout, a flight or a few hours in the sun. They’re also a great way to set makeup or give skin a hydration top-up midway through the day without disturbing your routine.
- Be cautious with retinols, AHAs or BHAs in strong sun- these active ingredients increase photosensitivity, meaning skin becomes far more prone to irritation, redness and sun damage when exposed to UV rays. If you’re not willing to give them up entirely over summer, restrict use to evenings only and always pair with strict SPF the next day. Many people find it easier to pause stronger actives altogether on holiday and reintroduce them gradually once the weather cools.
- Don’t forget your lips, neck and hands when applying SPF- these areas are exposed just as much as the face but are so often missed, and it’s usually where premature ageing shows up first. Look for a nourishing lip balm with SPF for everyday wear, and make sure body sunscreen reapplication covers hands and neck, not just shoulders and limbs.
- Stay on top of your hydration- aim for at least 2 litres of water a day, more if you’re exercising or spending time in the heat. Hydration from within supports the skin’s barrier function and helps topical products work more effectively, so think of water intake as step one of your skincare routine rather than a separate health habit.
- Avoid over-exfoliating, especially if you’re on holiday and spending lots of time in the sun- sun-exposed skin is already more sensitised, so reaching for strong scrubs or acids can tip it into irritation and compromise the barrier further. Keep your routine gentle and moisturising, scaling back exfoliation to once a week, and consider switching to a milder enzyme-based formula until your skin’s had a break from intense sun exposure.
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Photo by Atlantic Ambience: https://www.pexels.com/photo/woman-in-a-bikini-and-round-hat-on-vacation-12944631/
